Why European Union banned a chemical in gel nail polishes
What's the story
The European Union has prohibited a key chemical used in certain gel nail polishes and cosmetics. The ban, which came into effect this week, prohibits trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a photoinitiator used to cure gel nail polish under ultraviolet light. The decision comes after European regulators classified TPO as a "reproductive toxicant," the European Commission said.
Chemical function
What is TPO, and where is it used?
TPO is a photoinitiator that helps gel nail polish set under UV light. Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist at the University of Cincinnati, explained to CNN that TPO initiates the reaction that cures the polish. David Andrews, acting chief science officer at the nonprofit Environmental Working Group, said TPO-containing products are mainly used in salons as they need a UV light nail lamp to harden the gel.
Health risks
Why has the EU banned it?
The EU has banned TPO for both home and professional use due to concerns over its reproductive toxicity, as seen in animal studies. These studies showed testicular abnormalities and reduced fertility. However, Dobos reassured gel manicure enthusiasts that they shouldn't panic. She noted that the exposure route to TPO through nail polish is different from animal feeding studies, so it doesn't pose the same risk.
Product reformulation
Alternatives to TPO are available
Dobos assured that alternatives to TPO are available. Some brands have already started reformulating their products or have used alternate photoinitiators. She suggested asking at salons about the products being used or opting for traditional nail polish, which has a long history of safe use. Doug Schoon, chair of the Nail Manufacturer Council on Safety, explained that the EU's ban targets only a single ingredient, not gel polishes as a whole.
Regulatory differences
Is TPO still allowed in the US?
Despite the ban, TPO is still found in cosmetic products in the US. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not require pre-market approval for cosmetic products and ingredients, except color additives. However, manufacturers are legally responsible for their products' safety and labeling. Dobos doesn't expect a federal-level ban on TPO by the FDA but anticipates state-level activity due to recent ingredient bans in states like California.